From cave paintings to hieroglyphics, ancient record-keeping has shown illustrious fashion. Excavators and historians have unveiled garments and production methods of ancient times — yes, before Instagram Reels — and laid out for us, brick by brick, the foundation of fashion design. 

Let’s travel back to around 17,000 years ago. Hunters and gatherers of the Paleolithic Age might not have known the intricacies of a Singer sewing machine or Iris van Herpen, but — perhaps unknowingly — they marked the beginning of fashion history. From brown and spotted cows to amber stallions, some of the first iterations of fashion design were birthed within the walls of the caves of Lascaux in France: animal prints streaked across the white calcite.  

Similar paintings existed in the Altamira site in Cantabria, Spain. The Upper Solutrean and Magdalenian cultures (which date back anywhere from 21,000 to 11,000 years ago) crafted paintings of bulls, bison, handprints, and abstract designs. Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola and his daughter, Maria, discovered the paintings in 1879 following his initial visit to the cave in 1875. The two did not just discover early artwork, but potentially the first impression of the Homosapiens. 

And God said, “Let there be fabrics, cut and dyed to our liking.” No, that’s not really how that went (I think). The production of dyes and fabrics was much more imaginative than modern-day processes, but the illustrations of Paleolithic caves bring to consideration the use of materials like hides and plant fibers in the daily wear of the Neanderthals and earliest Homosapiens, as well as the further development of garments. 

As humans began evolving, so did their style. What started with flax, leaves, and animal skin gradually matured as civilizations developed. Between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, Mesopotamians began weaving wool from sheep and embroidering clothing to indicate class distinctions. Similarly, early Chinese societies cultivated silkworms and mulberry leaves to create silk, reserved for royalty.  

Later, ancient Egyptians expanded into the production of linen cloth, which suited the hot, dry climate of the Middle East. In the Old Kingdom of Egypt (2649-2130 BCE), clothing was directly linked to status, occupation, and religious beliefs. Hieroglyphics depict pharaohs and high priests in white linen, symbolizing divinity and purity. Accessories like jewels, wigs, and false beards, also indicated wealth, wisdom, and social ranking.   

The New Kingdom of Egypt (1550-1070 BCE)  brought forth a flourishing textile industry, with the Egyptian elites donning more elaborate tunics, shawls, and loincloths. Quality, color, and design all signified social hierarchy, which became widespread throughout various ancient worlds. The Phoenicians, a seafaring civilization with a thriving trade network, focused heavily on color. The most expensive dye of the Phoenicians, Tyrian purple, emanated from the mucous secretion of sea snails in the Eastern Mediterranean. Off the coast of Tyre, Lebanon (about 50 miles south of the capital city of Beirut), thousands of snails were required to produce just a small amount of dye. The labor-intensive process made the deep purple dye one of the most highly coveted colors in the ancient world, and the Phoenicians’ expansive trade industry carried this valuable purple across the Mediterranean, to Greece and Rome.  

The Greeks advanced fashion with a more structured system of clothing. The chiton, himation, and peplos — all types of popular Greek dressings —  brought a nearly infinite number of styles, allowing wearers to drape, fold, pleat, gather, and layer as they pleased. Clothing became artistic, emphasizing the beauty of the human form. Still, dyes like red, saffron, and purple distinguished social class. 

In Ancient Rome, urine surprisingly played a large role in class distinction. Not only was the ammonia in urine used to dye textiles, but Roman prostitutes were required by law to dye their hair blond in an attempt to set them apart from ordinary women. Nine times out of ten, they doused their hair in urine and soaked in the sun to achieve this look.  

The Romans also adopted the stylistic tendencies of the Greeks. The stola, a long layered cloth worn with belts and jewelry, was worn by women of the time, while men sported togas that indicated rank through color and decoration. Purple-lined togas were reserved for magistrates, senators, and emperors while citizens of modest standing typically wore plain white. 

While fashion has always served as a reflection of evolution, the advancements of the 21st century extend far beyond the innovations of the past. In contrast to the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Greece, or Rome, which were limited to locally sourced, naturally occurring materials, modern fashion is driven by synthetics, like polyester, nylon, and rayon. The development of such fabrics during the 20th century has made clothing not only more accessible and affordable but less ceremonial and exclusive. Mass-produced, durable, and inexpensive, synthetics contribute to the democratization of the fashion industry by making distinct clothing — in every aesthetic imaginable — available to the masses, rather than merely the social elite. 

Today, fashion has become removed from practicality. This contemporary shift concentrates more on self-expression, identity, and trends, all of which keep the high-speed industrialized process of the fashion world alive.  What was once a tool to present social status, occupation, and religion has transformed into a more complex expression of individuality and consumerism.  

Modern fashion culture reflects the complexities of society — something that has not changed throughout history. However, the inventions of the internet and social media have rapidly accelerated the shift from a reflection of social hierarchy to a nuanced form of personal expression.  

Though fashion and style remain powerful mediums for communication and status, their overall function has drastically evolved from the rigid, symbolic dress codes of ancient civilizations. Historically, clothing was more than a necessity or aesthetic choice but rather a structured system of representation. In this instance, fashion might even be devolving back to the fluidity and freedom of the Paleolithic age, when early humans adorned themselves without the constraints of societal expectations. However, now on a more elaborate and global scale, modern Homosapiens have greater access to means of personal expression and creativity.